Worm Composter
Do you need a worm composter? Vermicomposting, or worm composting, is one of the most efficient methods of composting your kitchen scraps. And composting, in general, is one of the most efficient ways of dealing with kitchen scraps and yard waste. When you consider that almost 30% of the waste stream of the US is generated by food and yard waste, it makes good “green” sense to try to divert some of that by composting.
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Worm Factory 360 WF360B Worm Composter, Black List Price: Sale Price: $109.95 You save: $10.00 (8%) Eligible for free shipping!Availability: Usually ships in 24 hours Average Rating: ![]() |
Description
Composting with worms allows you to turn kitchen scraps, paper waste and cardboard into nutrient-rich soil for your plants. The Worm Factory 360 composting system makes the entire process quick and easy. With a thermo siphon air flow design, the Worm Factory 360 increases the composting speed. Now you can produce compost much faster than traditional composting methods. Master Gardeners agree, worm castings are one of the richest forms of fertilizer that you can use. The Worm Factory 360 can be used indoors or outdoors allowing year round production. Now composting is no longer limited to backyards. The Worm Factory 360 is odorless making it great for apartments, kitchens, garages, porches and more. Simply add a handful of worms and your organic waste to the bottom tray. The worms will start processing the food. Once the bottom tray is filled add another tray. The worms migrate upward to the newest food source leaving the bottom tray full of nutrient-rich compost. As waste is broken down, moisture filters through the system, taking nutrient-rich particles with it. This makes it possible to harvest organic liquid fertilizer right from the spigot. 20 year warranty.
Features
- The Worm Factory 360 has a standard 4-Tray size which is expandable up to 8 trays, giving it the largest volume of any home composter.
- The redesigned lid converts to a handy stand for trays while harvesting the compost.
- Included instructional DVD with step-by-step guide for managing your Worm Factory 360.
- The accessory kit provides basic tools to make managing the Worm Factory 360 easier.
- Built in "worm tea" collector tray and spigot for easy draining.
Reviews
I have worms, but my husband loves me anyhow.
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by Michelle R from Minnesota on 2010-01-28
(As the process continues, the review will update.)
Hi, I'm Michelle, and I have worms.
A few weeks ago I made the decision to give vermicomposting a try. I live in an area that supports recycling, but we still have to take the items there. The rest of the trash costs us per weight, and ends up decomposing in a way that is not healthy. Why not reduce the trips to recycling, the money spent having someone else take away the rest of it, and end up with healthy compost for our plants? Hey, when it's January and you live in one of the coldest states, you start thinking about gardening so that you don't go all Jack Torrance.
I read a lot on the topic, including a lot of advice on making my own bin. However, DIY bins almost always involved work in getting your slimy friends to go to The Other Side of The Bin. I decided to make the investment and buy a stackable unit, because they're made and used in a way that the worms migrate up and leave the finished compost behind. I thought it was well-worth the money now for the convenience and the anticipated money saved.
Set up of this unit was very easy, and I choose to follow the advice of many to set it up a week or two before the worms arrived in order to introduce them in when the environment was ideal for them. Worms, come to find out, don't care about your rotting food and yesterday's paper so much as they care about the microbes that care about these things, and so setting it up allows those microbes to show-up and chow down. The kit gave everything I needed, including shredded paper, with the exception of table scraps and the recommended dirt to introduce grit and microorganisms. Dirt is not readily accessible in Minnesota in January, but I managed a couple tablespoons of mud. (Besides, when the worms showed up, they brought some dirt with them and I had some, er, well-aged scraps.)
Yesterday -1/27/10- the worms arrived and I introduced them to the bin. While they were well-packaged, shipped next day air, and held at the post office, they'd still been through a lot, and were initially sluggish (is calling a worm sluggish a mixed metaphor or just possibly defamatory?) but after a couple hours much more active. They're mostly the surface and do seem to be attracted to the areas with the scraps.
While it's early, and I intend to update this as the process continues, I'm quite happy with the bin and the very detailed instructions or setting up the bedding, etc. It's also very simple looking and attractive enough that, had I not a basement, it would be acceptable upstairs. A nice feature, and you can see it in the picture, is that the lid has quick guide to what scraps are best and offers some great tips.
I'm new at this, but I'll happily answer any questions I can in the comments about my personal experience or understanding of things. If you email me, I also might post that to comments -- referring to you as Ann on a Mouse, if you're shy. YouTube has lots of videos, but you will feel weird confessing to people that you've spent hours watching people fiddling with worms. (Trust me, I've been there.)
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2/3/10
Going well. Learning to not over -- overfeed, overworry, over-nose-around. The worms are still adjusting, but the environment seems to be working, and they're going at the scraps. Because I cook most nights, and make lots of veggies, I think it'll be a while before they'll be able to handle what I could give them, so I'm holding back.! There has been a day or two where I've not added to it, and let them catch up. Been grinding the scraps up in a chopper -- anything to start them out right. Also, upping the amount of fiber -- newspaper, mostly. Only 1 has tried to go "over the wall."
I continue to read up on the topic and my friends are either genuinely interested or humoring me until someone can show up with my injection.
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2/07/10
Hubert Hawkins: The pellet with the poison's in the flagon with the dragon; the vessel with the pestle has the brew that is true.
Griselda: Just remember that.
The Court Jester
A mortar and pestle is a great way to ground up dried egg shells. The worms use them for grit, which aids in digestion, it's a source of calcium which could help with reproduction -- or not -- and it prevents the soil from being too acidic. This is the one I have: Harold's Kitchen 3-1/2 Inch Round Mortar and Pestle, but I picked it more for looks than practicality. If you've saved up a number of shells, I've read you can use something like a plastic bucket, or dishpan, and a mason jar. A lot of folks just crumble by hand or toss the shells in whole.
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2/14/10
Happy Valentine's Day, and what's more romantic than a bin of worms?
Things are going fine. I've found a warmer spot in my basement, and now the bin is at about 65F, which is the best I can hope for this time of year unless I want to move the gang to the guest room. I've also ordered more worms. We're just creating too much waste right now and could use the help ... and I'm impatient. We have a freezer in the basement and I have a good size Tupperware container to freeze excess, but there's only so much room.
As kitchen scraps accumulate I use Norpro Ceramic Compost Keeper (in red.) It works well, and has a filter to stop your kitchen from smelling. The handle is shoddy though, and it arrived chipped -- I'll be honest and say I should have gotten a metal one. Whether you chose ceramic or metal, there are attractive designs out there though, that'll look okay on your counter. Compost keepers also allow scraps to age for a few days, which means they attract attention faster in the bin. Freezing scraps, or microwaving them, also breaks them down and has a similar effect, with the added consideration of killing off fruit fly eggs or mites that might have hitchhiked from the grocery store. Most mites are actually beneficial, but I think most folks are more comfortable not having stow-aways. One last note on the counter compost keeper: mix it up a little and be aware of how old the oldest scraps are so that you don't end up with a stinky mess at the bottom. After a week or so, maybe less, it's time to freeze or make sure the oldest stuff is what's for dinner in the bin!
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2/15/10
I should mention that the Worm Factory comes with a lot of stuff. There's coconut coir for the base bedding, and a lot of people swear by it and continue to use it. It's sent as a brick and you soak it in water until it's hydrated and smells like earth and clean soil. There's shredded newspaper, also for bedding, and other related materials. (Paper and cardboard serve as food & bedding, and the addition of them throughout the process keeps smells down, helps if you end up with extra moisture, and it vital to the process.)There's also a hand rake and a scraper. I've never used the scraper. There's also a thermometer which my husband wrote WORMS across so that there are no mix-up with the one in the kitchen -- I supported him in this. There's also a detailed instruction manual, which helped put me at ease. (This is what I received and what they offer currently -- I'd look at the product description to verify this is still accurate when you order.)
The WF (Worm Factory) is designed with a spigot to drain out extra liquids that might fall into the collection tray -- which is different from your working tray with the bedding, worms, and scraps. How moist a bin should be is the matter of some debate and nothing I feel experienced enough to speak to. There are also many discussions on what to do with this liquid -- which is called leachate, but some people call it worm tea. Most experts call worm tea something else -- a deliberate effort to create a mixture to pour on plants which I'm too early in the process to have done. I will say that my bin is moist, but not so moist that there has been drainage. I've rescued the odd worm from the collection bin, but not more than a drop or two of liquid. Since bins evolve, this might change. The design is also made for worms who fall down there to be able to crawl back up.
I'm adding updates enough to see this will get unwieldy before too long, so I'll announce them here, but place them in comments. :)
***
Latest update, 6/19, see first page of comments.
Great! The worms are eating my kitchen scraps.
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by OMB from on 2009-12-28
It's been about a month and my worms seem happy and contented in their bedding. I started with one tray, then gradually added 2 more. They are moving up and down the trays, getting into the food scraps at each level. I shred old newspapers, dip them in rainwater, squeeze out to "damp-sponge wetness", then spread it around the tray. A good percentage of the worms like to hang out in the newsprint and eat that.
The kit comes with everything you need except the worms. It's very easy to set up with the included instruction manual. The included hand rake is handy to mix vegetable and fruit scraps in with the moist paper. Kit also includes a coir brick (which you moisten and spread for their initial bedding), scraper, and thermometer. It's been unseasonably cold in Louisiana, so, like a new parent, I covered the kit with a blanket to insulate the worms. The box has since been moved from porch to patio where it catches the morning sun. The worms seem to be fine with the temp. extremes, as long as they don't get too extreme either way.
I ordered 2 lbs. of worms from Uncle Jim's Worm Farm and there seemed to be more than enough for the Worm Factory, so after a couple of weeks I transferred a handful of worms to my original compost bin,a converted plastic garbage can with holes drilled in the sides. Since we create a good qty. of daily kitchen waste, I put the excess into my original compost bin. The worms are doing their job there, too.
As recommended, don't feed them meat scraps, or dairy...spoils and sours the pile. Citrus peel is also a no no, too acid and too slow to break down. I also crush washed egg shells in with the food, which gives their gizzards the grit they need to digest food. The egg shells also add alkaline calcium which helps to balance the ph level.
Unit also generates compost tea, which is the result of moisture leaching through the worm bedding and castings. It is loaded with plant nutrients and beneficial bacteria for your growing plants! Mix it in your watering can and the life cycle continues!
This is a good product! It will provide you an easy way to go green (even if you live in an apartment), reduce your waste going to landfills, and provide nutrients for your garden. To boot, when you decide to go fishing, you're all set.
Easier than I thought
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by Bagger V from Bradenton, FL on 2009-12-29
I was nervous about composting with worms, but have been amazed at how little time it takes. I've had the Worm Factory 360 for about 3 months now and haven't had any problem with bad smells. I have it on my very small screened in porch (lanai as we call it in Florida) and no one even notices it. I started with 1 lb of worms but might recommend 2 lbs if you have lots of food waste. I suppose I have an average amount for a two-person household and after three months, there are almost enough worms to keep up with our waste. I generally feed the worms once or twice a week and sometimes turn on the hose nozzle to the Mist setting to add moisture. I would guess that I spend 10 - 15 minutes per week. Of course the initial set-up took a bit longer and harvesting the castings from the bottom tray will also take a little more time.
Excellent Composter!!!
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by Cheryl A. Little from Rye, CO on 2009-11-18
I Love this Composter. My worms are thriving and my table scraps are being composted. I highly recommend this product and will probably purchae another one next year. Great product, excellent & quick company support. Highly recommend!
Great product.
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by T. Parry from USA on 2010-03-17
The produce arrived well as described. I ended up losing my first batch of worms that I ordered off of Amazon. I believe the instructions went a little overboard as to how to set up the bedding turning a simple process into a complex, possibly unnecessary worm smorgasbord. Ordered a second pound of worms from thewormdude and with his recommendation, only used newspaper that had been soaked overnight and shredded and filled the bin. I dumped the full contents that arrived with the worms I ordered and they have been happy ever since. I feed them in the same location once their previous food I left for them is gone. Apples, strawberry tops, old grapes, etc. They are doing really well and I am already seeing newborn worms. I will update once I add the second tray. This is turning out to be a great science project for my son!
As a side note, I highly recommend thewormdude. He took a half hour on the phone with me to discuss in detail how to setup the bin and work with the worms. The worms he sent were in great condition and for the most part, large mature worms.
Traditional composting is always done outdoors, but not everyone has access to a compost pile -- Vermicomposting can be a great solution here. Vermicomposting systems are essentially closed systems which can be kept indoors. However, if you have access and weather permits, you can keep your worm composter outdoors.
So how does worm composting actually work? First, you need a special vermicompost bin. There are a few different types of bins you can buy, but the easiest is a three-bin vertical bin. When setting up your bins you will need to fill the bottom bin with moist bedding. The worms will burrow into the bedding and you will place your food scraps into this as well. A coir mat, or coco peat moss, makes for a good bed. You can also used shredded brown leaves (chop them up using your lawn mower or the chopping attachment to your leaf blower), or strips of newspaper – just make sure to skip the skip the inserts.
Whatever you use, your bedding needs to be the consistency of a well wrung-out sponge. Many people recommend adding a handful or two of soil. This helps the worms to digest the food scraps. Reminder: the bedding needs to be suitably moist. Some bins work better with slightly different types of bedding. Make sure to read the instructions that come with your bin. Then add about a pound of worms to your bin. You’ll want to buy worms specific to this task; usually red wigglers. These are not your typical garden earthworms.
After two or three days, you can begin feeding your worms. Generally, you will be feeding them fruits and vegetable scraps. A large chop is good. Use the waste from fruits and vegetables. You can also add coffee grounds and paper filters, and tea leaves and bags (not the staples or string). Do not add fat to your worm composting bin. Do not add any fish / meat / dairy waste. These things will attract pests. Some people suggest avoiding garlic, onions, and citrus rinds as these can sometimes be rejected by your worms. The best way to handle these products is to “test” them out first. Add a small quantity and see how it is received. If your worms process these items you can add more. Don’t add rotten food to the bin. You may occasionally need to add water to the bin to keep things moist.
To add the food, simply bury it in the bedding. Start at one corner of the box and gradually move across the box. It is a good idea to avoid adding more food until most of the old food has been processed. Once you get to the other side of the bin, start over again until the bin is almost full. Then cover the bin with scraps of moist newspaper and prepare the second tier. After a few days, add food to the second tier. The worms will begin to move into this bin as they clear the lower bin of all food scraps.
Once the worms have cleared the lower bin you will have worm castings left over. Worm castings, also called vermicompost, are actually worm poop, and make some of the best fertilizer you can get your hands on. Castings are beneficial to your plants and to your soil as well. Adding worm castings to your soil can also help your plants ward off insects.
One final note, if you are keeping your worms outdoors there are a few things to consider. The worms cannot survive at temperatures over 90 degrees or under 40 degrees. If you do keep your worms outdoors, it is a good idea to keep the worm composter in the shade.

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